The first thing is to make sure the ATF level is correct, even if the machine is supposed to add back in what it took out. Also that the correct ATF was used. I don't think a dealer would mix up WS fluid with others, but you never know.

Whistle could indicate a restricted filter or suction side leaks.

If needed, look up a well-reviewed local ATRA shop:

ATRA - Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association

www.atra.com

 

The first thing is to make sure the ATF level is correct, even if the machine is supposed to add back in what it took out. Also that the correct ATF was used. I don't think a dealer would mix up WS fluid with others, but you never know.

Whistle could indicate a restricted filter or suction side leaks.

If needed, look up a well-reviewed local ATRA shop:

ATRA - Automatic Transmission Rebuilders Association

www.atra.com

Thanks. I’ll check to see if they verified the fluid level. They made it seem like everything was fine and documented that I came it to get it checked. If it keeps doing I’ll push them to check those leaks. I’ve heard that sometimes it can throw off a transmission by getting new fluid. Is that true?

 

New fluid usually makes the transmission shift smoother. Unless they messed up. The most I'd expect would be slightly different shift characteristic, but not whistling noise.

There were talks about needing to reset the transmission adaptations with the later LePelletier designs but I wouldn't bother.

 

It’s shifts fine which is good. Do you think maybe the filter should have been replaced?

 

It never hurts to change the filter especially at this mileage level.. I did mine at 80,000 km.

 

Is the noise easily duplicated?
If it is, see if you can narrow it down to where it is coming from, or maybe even find the source. Then you can determine if it is related to the transmission flush or otherwise.
It is also possible that they had to remove some hoses in order to hook up the flush machine, and the hose could have came off. Nevertheless, you still need to find the source of the noise, and if the dealer who did the flush is not helpful in that regard, maybe you need to do some snooping around yourself first.

 

Is the noise easily duplicated?
If it is, see if you can narrow it down to where it is coming from, or maybe even fine the source. Then you can determine if it is related to the transmission flush or otherwise.
It is also possible that they had to remove some hoses in order to hook up the flush machine, and the hose could have came off. Nevertheless, you still need to find the source of the noise, and if the dealer who did the flush is not helpful in that regard, maybe you need to do some snooping around yourself first.

Good point. I can have someone shift it in and out of park to try to track down the noise. Thanks

 

These transmission's filters are very much on the coarse side, and I've never heard of one clogging, even on vehicles with well over 200k miles on them. And a proper fluid-replacement procedure does nothing to "agitate sediment", despite much internet speculation to the contrary. No "additives" or "cleaning agents" should ever be added for the purpose of "flushing" during a plain-old fluid replacement (I believe Toyota is quite specific about this).

Multi-vehicle (usually synthetic) fluids which include a WS application rating work well in these car's transmissions.

Fluid level may be a cause of the strange noise, but I suspect that possibly some other ancillary component (like a water pump or alternator) could be the true cause, with the sound's generation possibly having more to do with the engine's rpm.
---Does your engine's RPM change noticeably when the shift selector is moved?
---Does the noise occur both in Drive and Reverse?

I wouldn't much suspect any suction-side leaks unless the shop had actually pulled the pan to replace the filter. It's often mentioned that mistakenly leaving the old filter O-ring in place and then adding another one can cause air suction leaks of this sort.

It is all-too-common for these transmissions to have their fluid level set at the wrong temperature (instead of at the correct 95-113F), or using wrong technique, thus leaving the fluid level on the low side.
Another poster here mentioned that their transmission worked fine for tens of thousands of miles before being found to have been grossly over-filled.

Perhaps (as new echo owner mentioned) the fluid replacement machine was used incorrectly, as in having not been fully purged of air before starting the fluid replacement procedure(?).
That seems like an easy enough mistake for a busy mechanic to make, but still just a wild-ass-guess on my part.

A common symptom of the fluid level being too low would be for the transmission to seemingly remain in neutral when first engaging Drive or Reverse after the transmission has fully cooled overnight. This due to the fluid shrinking and also because of the colder, thicker fluid "hanging up" and thus taking longer to return to the pan. The result is then that the fluid pump draws too much air for the transmission to actually engage any gear (insuffient fluid pressure failing to compress the clutch pack).
I would test this on the coldest possible morning, engaging Drive and Reverse a few times each, while tapping the gas pedal briefly between each gear engagement (let the engine slow each time before again engaging Drive or Reverse!). This might cause enough fluid to be retained above the pan's fluid level for any low-transmission-fluid-level symptoms to show their hand.
I'm not sure if or how parking on an uphill, downhill or sideways slope would affect any of the above, but might make some difference(???).
These car's transmissions are both warmed and cooled by the engine's coolant, so the fluid warms up fairly quickly as compared to many older cars.

 

While the filter is on the coarse side, I personally likes to change the filter, but I don't think that's the problem right now if the dealer didn't drop the pan. Typically the ATF exchange machine uses cooler lines.

I wouldn't trust the dealer tech to set the ATF level correct. Too many reports of low ATF after dealer service. However, the machine was supposed to make sure of that. Then again, you never know.

 

Your transmission is likely overfilled. Even the dealership technicians screw this up. The same thing happened to me after I had a fluid exchange done at the dealership. I would hear that whistling noise every time I shifted into park/drive/reverse. I brought it back and they told me it was overfilled, and it was the fluid hitting the mechanics of the tranny that was making the noise. They blamed it on the fluid exchange machine and said it needed to be recalibrated. I got the car back in about 15 minutes, and thought to myself that it was very quick. The service advisor told me that the technician drained about a half a quart, and it was no longer making the noise so it “should be good.” I asked “should be good?” I told her there is a process to check the level, and it takes a bit of time. I asked her if the technician checked the level, and she said she could ask him but he’s already working on the next car. I told her don’t bother because I knew what the answer would be. He wasn’t going to admit that he didn’t properly check the level. A few months later when the temperature dropped, my transmission started slipping. I bought a scan gauge2 and learned how to check the level myself. It turns out it was over a half a quart low. Now I just do drain and fills myself.

 

Dang, hate hearing stories like this. I wonder why they removed the trans dipstick.
It's a lot of work to simply check for quality and correct level of tranny fluid.

When I had old Corolla tranny fluid replaced, I watched the technician work on it on and off for 2 hours
because he was carefully measuring the temperature, and even after the fluid change, he let it idle
for a while, and rechecked the fluid level.

 

Checking and correcting an over-filled condition is easy if you can just drive/park the car onto beveled 2x10 lumber, on perfectly flat ground like a garage floor, and slide under the car on an exercise mat, not on a wheeled creeper.

Let the running engine start warming up, crack loose the 6mm Allen socket plug and put a wide pan underneath the drain plug.

By feel, with your hand, allow the pan to reach the temperature of blood, i.e. full body temperature, which is far from the 113F ("hot bath") upper limit of temperature. You then pull the plug when it starts to get warm, and an over-filled transmission will have the fluid coming out in a steady stream. If it's an interrupted stream as the trans fluid reaches body temperature, then the fluid level may be slightly low but not too full.

Re-install the plug with a strong tug, I didn't replace any plug gasket and mine doesn't leak at all.

 

Mine did the same thing after replacing the fluid for the first time, even when the level was correct. Didn't effect performance. Took it to a transmission shop, they said it happens sometimes after a fluid swap, even when there's nothing really wrong with it.

A Sonnax Zip-Kit would probably take care of it:

Zip Kit® - U760E-ZIP

Sonnax Zip Kit U760E-ZIP targets the root cause of multiple concerns by sealing the critical circuit pressure losses in Toyota/Lexus U760E and U760F valve bo

www.sonnax.com

Check the black door card to verify your transmission model. But it's prob U760e.

It's prob internally leaking fluid a little more after fresh fluid is put in. Not a huge concern, but there's still some performance/noise left on the table if it's not fixed.

 

The cavitation noise that you're hearing is from there being too much fluid. The sweet spot is 2.5qt, but they say that the amount varies. Even a small amount above that can cause a whine. Its not harmful, just annoying. I don't go back and fix it because it's better to be over than under and not realize then there's slipping etc. I do mine once a year due to commercial use.

 

I'm back, and after some extra research it appears that the noise occurs when the SL solenoid turns on, and error code associated would be P2714

Noise can be found at the 20 minute mark.

Notes about the video
-mechanic drained out 4 quarts, put 4 back (too much)
-the noise is very loud, seems to be much louder than mine, but i do not test in a garage setting.

I'm not sure if the noise is coming from that solenoid itself however it seems like there could be an intermittent issue with the pressure when shifting due to overfill.

Now that I know what "hitting the mechanics of the transmission" actually means I do plan on getting the fluid back to specifications.

Also, one of the dealerships here in Las Vegas just told me that they do not recommend transmission fluid exchanges anymore on this car unless its used under heavy loads, but if i wanted one, it would be $500.

In the video there was another issue, rough, hard and erratic shifting. The two issue could very well be separate problems.

This may not be necessarily attributed to the TC on a 2015 but some of these transmissions are prone to case failure, the counter drive gear bearing to be exact. There was no mention of metal shavings in the fluid but it didn't seem like he really inspected it and did not check for metal shavings in the pan.