Toyota Forum banner

Battery Failure

1 reading
11K views 31 replies 23 participants last post by  rl1990  
#1 ·
Hi All,

I have a 2020 Corolla 1.8L non-hybrid sedan which I bought new in 2019. I have a little over 40k mileage. I noticed for the last few days my startups have been a little slower. I went to AutoZone to have my battery tested and it failed, the charge was 100 percent. Has anyone else had battery failure within 3 years of a new car with battery? Toyota charges around 200 for a new battery. Any suggestions about this or of higher quality battery's I can get elsewhere? I drive around 12k miles a year and make sure the lights are off when I exit the car.
 
#2 ·
I would expect 5-8 years out of an average car battery, but generally closer to 5. I got 8 once by some magic.
Looks like it is a bit of a strange size, either an H4 or an H5. costco carries the H5 but only in an AGM for $180. Not sure if the factory battery is AGM or flooded. It's usually best to stick with whatever type the car came with as the charging voltages are slightly different.(AGM, flooded, or enhanced flooded in the case of start-stop systems that choose not to use a pricier AGM) not enough different that it won't work, but enough that an AGM would probably live 80% as long as it could have if it were in a car designed for one.
a bit of looking around and home depot has an exide H5 model for $129 at my local location. given the price its probably flooded

my hope is that the car can fit either an H4 or an H5, as the H5 is a bit wider and cheaper. from a bit of preliminary looking around it seems the SE came with an H5 and the LE came with an H4, but if there is a bit of space on either side of the battery, then the H5 might be designed to fit too.
If you go the route of replacing it yourself, all you need is a wrench, just remember one rule. you should ONLY put a wrench on the positive terminal when the negative is disconnected. This is because if you touch the wrench to the frame and the positive at the same time, it can short the battery and get that wrench very hot or worse, but if the negative is disconnected already, nothing will happen. If you touch the frame and the negative at the same time, nothing happens.
so when you disconnect the battery, disconnect negative first. if you touch the wrench to the frame, nothing happens. then once negative is disconnected you can disconnect the positive without worry.
when reinstalling, do it in reverse order, connect and tighten positive first, then negative. If you follow this rule, even if you are careless you can't short it out, unless you are really trying to short it out. also make sure to check that you are connecting properly before wiring it up, just in case.
after replacing the battery, you need to perform a "steering sensor zero point calibration" which needs to be done whenever the battery is disconnected. according to the service manual, you need to start the engine, drive in a straight line at at least 22mph for 5 seconds or more, then stop and turn off the engine.
my guess is that the lane tracing assist would be inoperable until it sees you driving in a straight line long enough to determine where the center is, and this procedure is just enough to do that.
 
#4 ·
I would expect 5-8 years out of an average car battery, but generally closer to 5. I got 8 once by some magic.
Looks like it is a bit of a strange size, either an H4 or an H5. costco carries the H5 but only in an AGM for $180. Not sure if the factory battery is AGM or flooded. It's usually best to stick with whatever type the car came with as the charging voltages are slightly different.(AGM, flooded, or enhanced flooded in the case of start-stop systems that choose not to use a pricier AGM) not enough different that it won't work, but enough that an AGM would probably live 80% as long as it could have if it were in a car designed for one.
a bit of looking around and home depot has an exide H5 model for $129 at my local location. given the price its probably flooded

my hope is that the car can fit either an H4 or an H5, as the H5 is a bit wider and cheaper. from a bit of preliminary looking around it seems the SE came with an H5 and the LE came with an H4, but if there is a bit of space on either side of the battery, then the H5 might be designed to fit too.
If you go the route of replacing it yourself, all you need is a wrench, just remember one rule. you should ONLY put a wrench on the positive terminal when the negative is disconnected. This is because if you touch the wrench to the frame and the positive at the same time, it can short the battery and get that wrench very hot or worse, but if the negative is disconnected already, nothing will happen. If you touch the frame and the negative at the same time, nothing happens.
so when you disconnect the battery, disconnect negative first. if you touch the wrench to the frame, nothing happens. then once negative is disconnected you can disconnect the positive without worry.
when reinstalling, do it in reverse order, connect and tighten positive first, then negative. If you follow this rule, even if you are careless you can't short it out, unless you are really trying to short it out. also make sure to check that you are connecting properly before wiring it up, just in case.
after replacing the battery, you need to perform a "steering sensor zero point calibration" which needs to be done whenever the battery is disconnected. according to the service manual, you need to start the engine, drive in a straight line at at least 22mph for 5 seconds or more, then stop and turn off the engine.
my guess is that the lane tracing assist would be inoperable until it sees you driving in a straight line long enough to determine where the center is, and this procedure is just enough to do that.
Thank you! I plan to get the dealer 7 year warranty battery, I called 3 Toyota dealers in the area and the least expensive is 160 at the Rancho Santa Marguerita, CA location. Sadly, Costco does not have a model fit for the 1.8 L.
 
#3 ·
Has anyone else had battery failure within 3 years of a new car with battery?
A whole lot of variables affect battery longevity (sitting, idling, short or long trips, frequency/speed of those, temperature and many more, not to mention potential electric/mechanical issues). So yes, you will see less than 3 years as well as more than 7 years.
 
#8 ·
If your battery tested charged 100% and they judged it failed, get another shop to test it. Get them to load test the battery to make sure the current is sufficient. Have the starter tested too. This is just too short a time for these things to start failing. You might need to use the warranty if the battery or starter are faulty already.
 
#17 ·
#23 ·
I was on my 3rd new battery from Toyota in the 2 years & 9K miles that I owned it, due to some electrical issues Toyota could never seem to resolve. One of several problematic reasons that I traded it in & decided to try my first Mazda instead back in early Feb 2022 (which thus-far has been problem/defect free & a great little crossover in-general). I lost a lot of trust/faith in Toyota quality/craftsmanship with my 2020 Corolla ownership experience. 😿 The original factory battery on my 2015 Yaris SE hatch was problem-free for 4 years & 40K+ miles though, before I replaced it preventatively as part of my planned maintenance schedule.
 
  • Like
Reactions: voodoo22
#24 ·
One thing to note, Toyota batteries typically carry a long warranty as compared to the auto parts store. My 14 Tacoma battery lasted 7 years as have previous Camry batteries. My ‘13 hybrid still has its original 9 year old battery. Granted, that’s a little different not being used as a starting battery.
 
#25 ·
Walmart sells a 1 year warranty battery for your Corolla for $59 with plenty of power. I was told it is their same battery that has a 3 year warranty that cost about 3 times more but the extra cost is just for the additional warranty. I’ve purchased three of these batteries when they were $49 and they have given me excellent service for almost 3 years now. If they all fail tomorrow, I’d replace them with the same thing. I figure if they last only three years, I can expect 9 years service for the cost of one 3 year warranty battery. They key is to have a battery maintainer hooked up to your car if you don’t drive it often. Weak batteries will make the car’s electronics run goofy in addition to contribute to premature battery failure.
 
#28 ·
Advise getting a comprehensive battery/charging/starting system test performed prior to replacing anything - for instance, a poor connection to the starter can cause slow starting. The dealership or a competent independent shop can do this but my experience is the freebees from parts stores can miss some a detail or be outright incorrect (more than once they've told me a battery was good when it actually was close to failing). A good place to start is to measure engine off and charging voltages with a digital volt meter, followed by a poor mans load test using your headlights - this might be sufficient to finger an ailing battery or a failing charging system. An engine off voltage test after the car has been parked overnight can tell you more about the battery or if you have high parasitic drain.

When replacing, use a battery of the same general type (structure, chemistry) as charging parameters can differ. A physically larger model that fits is okay, even better if it has a higher capacity. Sometimes (not always) the prices at dealerships are good.
 
#29 ·
BAD BATTERY issue with my 2020 Toyota Corolla also. Went in to have a recall done and was CONNED into purchasing another because just a little less than 1 yr. And 8 months ago Toyota replaced my battery under the factory warranty my car had been a year old then. So I take my car in because I was thinking the battery that Toyota replaced the first time would surely come with the 2 year free replacement warranty like the battery has printed on it but they said under Toyota's guidelines they can't replace a battery that was replaced under the factory warranty. EVEN IF THEY REPLACED IT WITH A BAD BATTERY. I would think a decent battery should at least last 2 to 3 years but 1 year and 8 months. They are nothing more than ripping customers off. I am still at the dealership trying to get my car fixed from the RECALL on the ECU software update that caused several of my major systems to malfunction. They had the audacity to say that this was all cause of the battery being bad and it should go away. 3 weeks later and they are still trying to figure out what the heck they did to my car to cause all these malfunctioning on the lane assist, on the secondary collision, parking brake malfunctions and now whenever I go to put gas in my car it stalls when cranking it and it takes 3 or 4 times before it starts up. I never had any issues until after they replaced the battery and performed the ECU software update.
 
#31 ·
...and somehow it will be your fault (sarcasm). My driving habits haven't changed, only the quality of the products we get have changed. Mine died after 2 years 6 weeks and 28,000 km's. I've never had a battery die on me except when I accidentally left the lights on a couple times over previous vehicles owned. Even then, never had a battery die this quickly either. I've always replaced at the first sign of lower performance around 6+ years.
 
#32 ·
I've only owned 1 vehicle that had the factory battery make it past 3 years, my F-150 made it 4 1/2 years. The other 7 didn't make it to 3 years. My Camry was 3 years old when I bought it but it still had the factory battery in it. 2 days after I bought it the battery died. Luckily the dealer replaced it free of charge with a Toyota True Start battery. 3 1/2 years later it was dead. I replaced it with a Wal Mart battery because as weird as it sounds those are the ones that have lasted the longest for me.