Save your money. If you want a cheap boosted car get a Fiesta ST and sell your Corolla. The cost of turbocharging this car wouldn't be worth it IMO. A custom kit would be thousands (3-4) and that doesn't include the cost of upgrading the clutch and axles or internals which I can assure you aren't going to last once you throw in boost.

 

This, or get a Miata since they're cheap. IDK if you want to void your new car warranty now.

 

I'd plan on 5k+ if someone else to does the work. That's based on other vehicles but the process is the same.

 

Contact turbo kits.com. I think they are in Michigan.

@SuperchargedMR2 kit is from tkc. You might be the first?

 

Just no. Don't waste your time/money unless you plan to run a full standalone.

 

Boosting will cost you about $10K and that rate you could have picked up a GTI or Elantra N-Line for le$$ which are already boosted

 

Do it!!!!!

 

I highly recommend Boost Theory in Oakville Ontario. These guys are on top of their game. You get nothing but quality work from someone who is truly passionate about what they do and have a ton of experience. Google “boost theory” for all the info you need. Make an appointment and drop by, speak to Zee. 9052323444

 

lol good luck. There are not even any supporting modifications out like an updated clutch?

 

Pffft, even IF you could break into the Toyota ECU, and deal with all of the newer engine tech in the new 2.0, you still couldn't out-accelerate a newer Ford F-150. Not to mention, uh hem...Teslas that are everywhere now.
Turn up the boost enough to have the hp/weight to run with average cars and say hello to lots of FWD wheel spin.

 

First of all you need to do a stand-alone ecu. 2nd you can absolutely destroy any car out there if your pockets are deep enough for the mods. Everything is available (custom made) pistons, valves, retainers and transmission build up. I know this for a fact as I inquired about it and had a proper quote given to me on what is needed to safely daily a 600whp Corolla Hatch. All of the custom engine and transmission work (including an LSD) can be done through Mississauga Engines (Caesar). All of the boost work through Boost Theory. (Zee). Like I said, it’s all about how deep your pockets are. All of you haters just try to discourage others because you don’t have what it takes to get something as unique as this done. That’s a #fact.

 

Not "hating" just being realistic, because yeah with enough money anything is possible. Case in point at the Papadakis Racing drift car... Pretty sure for most if they had that much money to blow they would just go buy a different car.

 

You notice how 90% of you didn’t answer the OP’s questions, but instead just reply with discouragement and completely ignore the actual questions he had?

That’s the type of stuff I hate and see in these forums far too often. Answer the OP’s questions if you can, let him take it from there and decide for him self what he desires to do. It’s not your decision, as it’s not your $, but the OP’s.

Someone will end up boosting one of these sooner or later-the more data we get on it the better it is for anyone else desiring to go down that route.

Not everyone wants to buy something that’s quick from the factory. The bliss for many of us is in something that isn’t designed to do what it does destroy that which is designed from factory to do what it does and see the look on the owner’s face afterwards. That’s precisely what makes it all worth the research/work/investment; priceless.

 

What does 250k$ ROI look like?

The amount of work building and converting it is worth more than the car. Especially if papadakis racing got a huge discount on the car. Doubt they got it free of charge.

What do I know? I don't race or look for sponsors.

 

What does 250k$ ROI look like?

The amount of work building and converting it is worth more than the car. Especially if papadakis racing got a huge discount on the car. Doubt they got it free of charge.

What do I know? I don't race or look for sponsors.

Mostly none of these BIG builds can happen without some type of financial support, sponsor or tax break. Papadakis Racing wouldn't be building a Corolla if it weren't for Toyota's sponsorship, which is worth it to Toyota for them to have their car in D1 and hoping these driftboi fans wet pants and go out and buy one.

And these tuning shops that do builds, all those parts they buy are "tax write offs", and the cars are likely more to be owned by the shop. They've got to be creative somehow with their finances to be able to afford do it.

 

But, they don't know budget.

 

I wouldnt bother....too many fun cars out there that need a new owner and can keep the daily driver as is.

But, its your car and Visa credit line....do whatever you want.... Grew up on FWD turbo cars and they all were a hoot to drive.... Still drive a FWD turbo car.... dont miss AWD, RWD, or 4WD.... Takes a little more skill than what most will ever have

Enjoy the build and the ride...

 

Let me start off by saying. Your car. Your money.

I'm one of the ones that have walked the walk. Poured a ton of money into a new 1994 Cavalier Z24 which I daily drove. I was young and just starting out with getting into cars and the whole tuning thing. There wasn't really any part of the car I didn't touch. Engine wise I did a Crane Compucam 2030, ECU chip, Crane 1.6 roller rockers, custom clutch, custom cat back exhaust with free flowing cat, and nitrous injection. There were other minor mods. Suspension wise I did Eibach Prokit springs, Energy urethane bushings, caster plates, Bilstein struts modded to allow for more camber, Koni Sport rear shocks, and larger rear sway bar.

So there was quite a bit of work done and the car was a total sleeper. Would I do this again? Not so sure. I learned a lot with this project which I carried over to my later car purchases and what I did in terms any mods.

So the problems. Even though Crane said the 1.6 roller rockers were a drop in, I had to have the lower intake manifold modified by grinding certain areas down to allow for the clearance needed. The valve covers had to have the insides machined down to also allow for the clearance needed and the rear valve cover required the PCV opening to have a baffle welded to it. This also required a machine shop as welding aluminum isn't something you would have your local exhaust shop just whip out. The rocker studs also had to be slotted because the amount of clearance wasn't there to install them. The custom clutch I got also had clearance problems requiring the manufacturer to send me a different pressure plate from one they thought would work. I went through 2 different tuning companies in trying to get a chip that would work properly with the car's ECU. One had a novel idea where it allowed me to switch between their tune or the stock tune with a literal flip of a switch. Never worked despite several attempts with updated hardware. The second company initially didn't work either. After some R&D on their end, they finally got it to work with a piggy back set up where the chip would be installed in the ECU and the stock chip would connect to a piggy back connector.

Along the way I've had some major mishaps. I went through 2 blown engines. All due to being under spray. First one was a NOS fogger system. I didn't go beyond NOS' recommended jets for my car. Yet a piston cracked which seized the motor. We all felt it was a manufacturer defect in the piston which only came to light when I pushed the engine under spray. All the other pistons were fine. Second blown engine was a result of a nitrous solenoid malfunction. I got off the spray but the nitrous solenoid jammed open. This was with a Top Gun nitrous system. I ended up going back to nitrous again but used NOS' dry spray system. This time things were fine and no other issues.

Because of the less than ideal roads where I live and with my suspension having the ride quality of a go kart, I started to see failures in the suspension components. The rubber bushings in the inner tie rods went. The Bilstein struts failed due to the pounding they got from the pot holes and uneven road surfaces. I've had multiple failures of the half shafts at the CV joints. The trans went on the car requiring another trans. This was due to the clutch system I put in the car. The hydraulic clutch system didn't have the pressure to fully disengage the pressure plate as I got the custom clutch for more clamping force. So when I was disengaging the clutch, there was still some engagement happening which wasn't good for the gears/synchros. Also with the clutch system, I went through a couple of failed release bearings due to them being stressed from the pressure plate.

If you've gotten this far, good for you. Here are my lessons learned. It's fun and some what satisfying to have something unique. I sure as heck did as I only knew of one other person in the country that had a better modified Z24. When you modify a car so extensively which is only meant to be an econobox daily driver, you're going to run into lots of issues. As you can see, I did and it wasn't from a lack of buying quality parts or half assing installation. The mechanic I used was a ASE Master Tech. Owned his own shop and has had extensive engine building experience from doing twin turbo Corvettes to Camaro/Mustangs to eventually being the recognized SHO (Yamaha engine) expert for the entire east coast. I'm sorry but those saying they're going to take a car which only has 168 HP from the factory to 500 to 600 HP AND daily drive it are fooling themselves. When you modify a car that extensively, it becomes a project car which only gets occasional use. So one of the lessons I learned is to have a daily beater which is a daily beater as a second car. When I had my Z28, I had my Z24 as my daily which eventually was done in by the number of miles I had on it and a blown head gasket. I got a Ford Focus ZX3 as a replacement. Now I have the C-HR. The Focus and C-HR's mechanicals are untouched. My current "project" car is a BMW 135i.

The amount of money poured into making an econobox go fast is better spent else where. There are other cars out there that have the foundations to be modded more easily with better power results. I keep hearing I can pour X amount into said car to make it just as fast or faster than Y cars. But if you took the total amount spent (X amount on mods plus price of car) and picked a more suitable car where the cost of mods equals the aforementioned budget, you would end up with an even faster car.

 

I'm sorry but those saying they're going to take a car which only has 168 HP from the factory to 500 to 600 HP AND daily drive it are fooling themselves. When you modify a car that extensively, it becomes a project car which only gets occasional use. So one of the lessons I learned is to have a daily beater which is a daily beater as a second car.

That's very good advice. Also, when people talk about major modifications to their only car it almost never happens, because they can't be without a car for the months+ that it will take.

I don't care what you own, building for grip or hp, is still building. You say "cheap people are attracted to the car" and I say, you are wrong. So you can take your assumption of "cheap people" and throw it out the window. I've spent good money on quality parts for an eco box.

Absolutely. I have seen NB Miatas with $100k of chassis development put in to them. They win races, but you'd have a hard time selling one for more than $20k. You can pick a good stock one up for $4k - now that's cheap. Project cars don't make financial sense.

The feasibility of these projects often comes down to how much engineering and wrenching you are willing and able to do yourself. I can do everything in house, from CFD/FEA to welding to wiring and and ECU programming. I don't have a milling machine, but a friend of mine does. As a result a $15k build for me is much different than a $15k build for someone who is paying a shop to do everything. There is nothing wrong with either approach, but it's something to keep in mind when reading about what others have done and deciding if you can do it too and what your budget needs to be.

 

I believe there is enough general initial interest in this car that it will become highly supported in the aftermarket. Eventually, you will see bolt on turbo and supercharge kits out there that are reasonably priced once the companies compete with each other.

I am personally waiting for this day to happen and I will jump on getting a SC kit for mine...

 

I am personally waiting for this day to happen and I will jump on getting a SC kit for mine...

When we see it is when we believe it.

Historically after the AE86, Corollas never got a level of aftermarket love, and IMO, they still don't. But given the recent car, its nice to see actual Japanese companies like Cusco and RS-R offering parts (I didn't see any available for the 10th Gen). If there is even a turbo/SC kit available, it needs to be on the market already, especially when Civics come with a turbo from the factory and their ECUs are easily tunable . With emissions and EPA regs these days, its much more difficult to re-engineer a car that was originally NA.

 

Me too. I put an TRD intake and I don't feel a big difference. I'm looking for a good exhaust system cuz I feel the car very slow accelerating. Just I want a good acceleration respond when I touch the gas pedal.

 

An exhaust system isn't going to change anything either on this car. There just isn't enough movement of "air" where the exhaust presents any restriction. If this car had a 350 cubic inch V8, then maybe an exhaust/headers will produce more power. But for a 2 liter 4 banger, an exhaust is only going to provide aesthetics and sound. Oh and maybe some weight savings.

With my BMW with an N55 motor, Dinan states adding their exhaust system with their stage 2 tune will only add about 5HP. This is on a 3 liter inline 6 turbo charged engine.

 

Wrong.

So wrong. A exhaust that reduces down to less than 2"s for about half of the system length in pipe is strangling these motors. Once you drop the tiny catback and tiny reducer from behind the resonator, the car actually wakes up a bit.

 

 

Shut him up. lol

Nope. It's called family time for Easter.

So I ran the calculations on what HP the chart translates into. Assuming 20% drivetrain loss from typical dyno runs, this means their baseline number for untuned on a stock setup is 189 HP at the crank. Then calculating the number they have for their system with no tune means 225HP at the crank. Something is drastically wrong at least with their base number. If you can't see this, you're just blinded by your fanboi-dom.

I admit I don't know all the players around those that make aftermarket kits for these cars. But searching around, I have yet to find anyone that comes close to these numbers. If you know anyone else, I would love to see what numbers they are posting up.

As the numbers stand, 20% increase by just increasing flow with no tuning means either these guys are some sort of magical engine tuners or Toyota's engineers don't know what the F' they're doing.

 

Shut him up. lol

 

I meant to quote that sorry, thought it'd be good for a laugh.

Someone was so cranky they had to go complain on another forum lol

 

You apparently don't know that Toyota ECU's are self learning. Other than the encryption that's why they are near impossible to tune, and why nobody messes with them. Because if you re-write some fuel tables, the programing in the ECU just changes it to what it thinks is best. So all it takes is a few days of driving around on these parts and the ECU can adjust for the increased air flow (in/out) by changing the fuel curve and timing.

Ask for numbers, I give you numbers. You were wrong, it happens.

 

You apparently don't know that Toyota ECU's are self learning. Other than the encryption that's why they are near impossible to tune, and why nobody messes with them. Because if you re-write some fuel tables, the programing in the ECU just changes it to what it thinks is best. So all it takes is a few days of driving around on these parts and the ECU can adjust for the increased air flow (in/out) by changing the fuel curve and timing.

Ask for numbers, I give you numbers. You were wrong, it happens.

Keep living in fantasy land. If you think, a stock ECU can make mapping changes that drastic due to more flow, you need to learn more about engine dynamics.

And Toyotas are not the only ECUs that are self learning. This technology has been around for years through other manufacturers. Yet no one has come out with bolt on parts that produce the gains being claimed here on an econobox engine.

If you say the Toyota ECUs can make up that much on just reducing flow restriction, you should have no problems showing me other aftermarket tuning companies that have parts that produce the same gains.

As I've pointed out, their baseline number is 189HP at the crank on totally stock setup. The fact you're not questioning this based on the factory stock figure of 168HP is beyond me and the published 0 to 60 numbers from various reviewers align more to the 168 HP number than 189 HP.

 

No, this is the results you get, when you start removing restrictive parts. Do you really think Toyota is going to give you every single HP from that engine? Designing a no restrictions exhaust? No. Because 1: they'd never sell. 2: they'd be loud and likely fail EPA test. Hell, California wouldn't even be sold the Corolla. lol. Hell Toyota was the first to create the self learning ECU's, and others just followed suit. I've had MULTIPLE Toyota engineers tell me (because I have friends in high places) that yes, the ECU can adjust to bolt ons, the thought process is that no matter where the Corolla is sold, it should perform about the same. (i.e. elevation changes)

You always come in here spouting off about econo boxes and such. Dude, nobody cares. As far as other manufactures, well they haven't posted their dyno sheets. And many of us, don't care enough to pay to see results from putting our cars on a dyno. If my friend still ran his shop that had a Dyno, I'd gladly put mine up there and put money on HP improvements with the minor tweaks I've made. But you just sit there denying proof in front of your face. They give you stock numbers compared to their upgrade numbers. On the same damn machine. What more do you want? Get upset that a company developed what, 30hp from redoing the entire exhaust from the head back, and adding a intake. I just don't get it.

Nobody here cares about your "econobox" logic. Nobody here is going to read your post and go: "Wow, this guy is right, my car is a slow commuter and I'd be stupid to try and optimize it and get the results I want." If you are against modding your car, then why are you here? It's one thing to say "Turbo charging is probably not worth the amount of money it'll cost to do it properly". It's another to say all the dumb stuff you have, more so to try and stand by it instead of just admitting you were proven wrong when. I bet you think Trumps never been wrong either.

 

Lots of keyboard warrioring and nothing of substance.

This engine was developed for specific segment. Those that care more about fuel economy versus performance. I don't care how sporty Toyota tries to make the exterior. In the long run, this car with this engine was designed to go from point A to point B in the cheapest way possible. The fact you still ignore suspect horsepower claims tells me a lot of your mentality. Even with production variances, there would be no reason for a 20 HP swing over official factory numbers and what these guys are claiming as the baseline HP on their dyno. I would be all over their claims as to why such a discrepancy. There have been a few manufacturers that have put out performance parts for my C-HR. I didn't go blindly say oh sure take my money for your supposed claims. I would love to have some additional power out of my C-HR but I'm not going to flush my money down the toilet either.

Ask yourself this question. The new mid engine Corvette has a performance exhaust option on a car that was designed from the ground up as a true performance car. Yet the performance exhaust only adds 5HP. And you think some tuner is going to some how massage 30HP to the wheels with exhaust changes without a tune? On a naturally aspirated engine no less. Get real.

I also asked for to provide another tuner that has given similar results to what these guys claim and you haven't. If these engines were that choked down, then there should be a plethora of options out there.

And I can already discount your opinion as meaningless with your weak ploy of bringing in politics when I have never even revealed my political leanings nor is it relevant to this discussion. Typical of someone that has no substance looking to deflect and distract.

ETA: If these numbers are real as they claim, why isn't it plastered all over their listing of the kit on their website instead of a single Facebook post? I'd be shouting this all over the place. And because of their remarkable achievement which other tuners have had trouble squeezing those types of numbers on the type of engine we're talking about here, whey are have they discounted the price of the kit so heavily?

 

That's the image POST ON THEIR WEB SITE. They are producing these numbers because they are actually changed many things, not just adding a "cat back" to the car, leaving the biggest restriction in place. Maybe if you'd crawl under you car, you'd know what I was talking about. They've changed the intake, the header, mid pipe, and catback. There are going to be big gains from that. More so when you consider the stock exhaust is reduced to less than 2"s at it's smallest point, and makes up almost half of the exhaust at less than 2"s.

Then you want to bring "the NeW CoRvEttE". Get real. we are talking two completely different styles of cars. Want to make a logical comparison, use Honda, not a mid engined, v8, built for retirees. With your own stupid logic, why does a Ecoboost Mustang with a little bit of upgrades, faster than a Shelby GT350? I'll give you a hint: its restrictive parts have been removed.

You want me to provide another tuner? Can't. You know why? Because they are the only ones who've currently developed a header back exhaust, and true cold air intake. 2018+ Corolla 2.0L

The engine was developed to be an engine. Even looking at the stock dnyo graph, it's similar to a Celica 2ZZ engine, which down low, does nothing. But once you start nearing peak RPMs, a beast awaits. It's classic Toyota, and classic Corolla formula. 4AGE wasn't any good until redline, 4AGE 20v was a monster in the high revs. 2zz monster in high revs. And now we have the m20a being very good (like the basic 4age) in the high revs.

The sad thing is, I'm sitting here defending this, because of your out dated logic and "fake news" claims, as someone who doesn't care about HP/TQ numbers. One of the many reasons I went with a Corolla was for its handling. (+ practicality) So for me to sit here and waste my time on someone with a 1946 logic of hp, is pointless to me. But there are those who genuinely want to go faster in a straight line, or want more HP, and well - they don't deserve to hear your "econobox" logic.

 

Sooo.... about that turbo though..... someone should do it 🤤

 

People you crack me up.

People: I want more HP.
Company: Makes parts that deliver more HP and show dyno sheet.
People: No way it makes that
Company: Why did we even bother?

 

Their claims are FALSE. Clearly you have no personal experience adding parts to all motor setups and spending quality time on a dyno. If you did, you wouldn’t continue trolling this much. Spend time on a dyno; you might learn a thing or two.

 

No your right, I woke up one morning and all this just appeared inside the car. It was the weirdest thing. I mean, to find a b20b, itr lsd, and a hole bunch of other parts not to mention a chipped and tuned p72 ecu. I was so confused.

 

Nothing special. No reason to doubt it isn’t yours.

Fact: When I was building my 2nd all motor setup, I did a full custom exhaust with racing 4-2-1 headers, cams, head work, skunk 2 stage 3 racing throttle body, custom cold air intake, custom ecu, on a motor built for racing which was an LS-Vtec with a civic type r head and Ctr pistons Etc... after all that, and A LOT OF TIME on a dyno, my gains were 29whp.

P.S. I will play Russian Roulette with only 1 bullet missing before I believe they made 30whp on a none-tuned Toyota motor with just an intake and full exhaust. LMAO. Sorry, but this is too funny and extremely silly to believe their lies just because YOU WANT IT TO BE TRUE. That’s exactly what they count on to sell you their lie.
I should start advertising air for sale. The way things are going it will sell. Smh while rofl at how false advertising steals money out of gullible wallets.

P.S.S. I hope you realize that the Toyota engine would need more fuel to make an additional 30whp, not just more air and breathing room. You seriously think toyota’s self learning computer is smart enough to magically become the world’s most elite tuner?! Remember their claims were just bolt on parts with no tuning. Please, wake up.